@moonshadow@slrpnk.net

comments

• It’s a social construct and everyone who thinks they have one loses

  on Need this rule in c/onehundredninetysix@lemmy.blahaj.zone · 15h ago

• What differentiates PipePipe? I really liked Tubular, which was NewPipe+SponsorBlock, but it quit getting updates

  on YouTube continues global crackdown on ad blockers, targeting mobile third-party apps in c/technology@lemmy.world · 15h ago

• I haven’t had access to grid power in over 10 years and am pretty familiar with this stuff as part of day to day life. I do now have solar. Really don’t think me and everyone else I know have been getting this consistently “lucky” for this long across such a wide range of devices. The 11-15v a nominal 12v battery system normally experiences is not a huge amount of fluctuation, and I have yet to encounter a 12v device that couldn’t take it. On the contrary, I’ve tried much dumber stuff and gotten away with it. There’s a 9v piano keyboard and a 19v computer monitor wired straight into that same battery. The only time I’ve actually killed something is by reversing polarity. Voltage too low=won’t turn on, voltage too high=gets hot, and all these years of wiring up random scavengings to see what happens have taught me most gear is surprisingly tolerant/resilient

  e: for SBC stuff, automotive USB charger makes a great 5v rail. My “homelab” was at one point a pi 3b and a 5v Buffalo wifi router running dd-wrt plugged into a cigarette lighter

  on DC UPS for router? in c/selfhosted@lemmy.world · 21h ago

• Hey, I have a lot of appreciation for the infrastructure you maintain so don’t take this the wrong way: you’re very confidently overcomplicating this one all over the thread. People run nominal 12v stuff direct from battery all the time and it’s fine. It’s the norm in RVs, boats, and off-grid housing. There’s usually quite a bit of wiggle room. The router I’m using right now won’t actually cut out until ~8v and sees almost 16 during my ancient lead acid battery’s eq cycles. It’s completely fine and has been for years. Not industrial or automotive grade by any means, a low-end Netgear from the thrift store.

  You also state “while there is DC power the battery in a UPS isn’t used”. Assuming you mean AC that’s still not quite correct, it’s always being charged at least a little and tapping it for DC is perfectly fine.

  That’s my advice to op, and a setup I’ve run before: replace the 12v battery attached to their existing UPS and wire the router/any other 12v devices right to it. A UPS is just a nicely packaged battery charger/inverter/transfer switch. Wiring them to larger/cheaper batteries that don’t happen to fit their casings is also entirely viable, as is running either of their outputs to a load panel. Sky’s the limit :)

  on DC UPS for router? in c/selfhosted@lemmy.world · 23h ago